A Short Article About Fabric Spreading

 

 

FABRIC SPREADING

 

The technique known as "fabric spreading" involves spreading many layers of cloth to achieve the desired length and breadth according to the marker dimensions. This involves laying and is done in advance of cutting. In the apparel industry, fabrics are cut one at a time for several items. The practice of stacking textiles according to a marker's length and breadth is called fabric spreading. The shape of the fabrics that is attained as per spreading of fabric, is called the 'Fabric lay'. In the 'fabric lay', there may be fabrics in 2 to hundreds of layers. Fabric spreading may be done manually or it can be done by machines also. 'Fabric Lay' is done mainly for achieving two objects - for fabric saving and for time-saving during cutting of fabric for each garment.

As the fabric lay is made by the spread of hundreds of layers of fabrics and it is done on the cutting table, the construction of the table should be strong and the top of it should be well smoothed. Especially, if the spreading machine is set on the spreading table, the table should be more constructed. The good quality spreading tables possess holes on their tops through which air is blown outside from the inside. 

 

Objectives:

-        To place the number of plies of fabric to the length of the marker plan correctly aligned as to length and width and without tension.

-        To cut garments in bulk and save on fabric

-         To save cutting time by cutting many plies at a time - To ensure every ply is plain and flat

-       To reduce manufacturing costs by cutting in a proper way by ensuring proper fabric spreading.

 

Importance:

-        It helps to place the number of plies of fabric to the length of the marker

-        It helps to cut the fabrics in bulk quantity at the markers at the same time.

-        It helps in saving fabric cutting time for bulk garment Production.

-        During cutting the fabric, it helps to use multi-clothing markers at the same time.

-        It helps in cutting many fabric plies at the same time.

-        It helps to make every fabric ply plain and flat.

 

Requirements of fabric spreading:

For making a correct and fair lay of fabric after spreading, a number of conditions and technical aspects need to be fulfilled. Among the conditions, some are compulsory, and others are not compulsory but it is good if they are fulfilled. The conditions are discussed below of which the first three are basic requirements and the remaining are additional requirements. Whatever way the fabric spreading is done, the basic requirements must be fulfilled.

 

1.     Alignment of fabric plies: Every ply should include at least the length and the width of the marker plan but should have the minimum possible extra outside those measurements. The nature of textile materials varies in width. In order to ensure the length of each ply along the length of the marker, the length of the fabric lay is kept 2 cm larger than the marker length in each end.

 

2.     Correct ply tension: The ply tension should be correct. If the tension is low, then there will be ridges plies and if the tension is too high then the fabric may shrink after cutting and sewing. Those of spreading m/c give uniform tension. During fabric spread, if it is done with high tension, then after cutting of the fabric or after sewing, shrinkage may happen in various parts of the garments, this will lead to the manufacturing of clothing that is flawed. Because of this, it is extremely important to maintain fabric tension when spreading the cloth.

 

3.     Fabric must be flat: During fabric spreading it must be kept in observation so that no folding or crinkle is there in the fabrics. If these are found, then required measures have to be taken immediately to remove them. During fabric spreading if it is not done on flat condition, this means the mentioned defects are there, the pattern of that part will be defective, and as a result, the clothing produced using that pattern will likewise be flawed.

 

4.     Elimination of fabric faults: During fabric spreading, if there are any fabric flaws then they are to be marked and necessary measures are to be taken to remove those flaws. The person who will be in charge of fabric spreading will have to bear the responsibility of marking the fabric flaws and their removal. During fabric spreading if any in flaws are found, then various measures can be adopted for their removal. For example, by rejecting the fabric of the defective place, the fabric spread may be done through splice. If the splice marking is done in the marker beforehand, then it is to be followed, otherwise, arrangement should be kept for sufficient overlapping so that all the patterns of that place are obtained in full dimension. Sometimes fabric defects are overlooked during fabric spreading, and during inspection after the production of the garments, the defective garments are rejected. Also, sometimes during fabric spreading if the fabric defect is in a small place, then metal tape is attached to that place. Then after completion of fabric cutting, the bundles of fabric patterns are passed through a metal detector machine. The bundles which contain metal tapes are detected by that machine.

 

5.     Correct ply direction: Before spreading of fabric it is to be checked that what sort of fabric it is. If the fabric is symmetric (same on both sides), then no problem will arise. But if the fabric is asymmetric (different on both sides), then the side of the fabric ply has to be determined with caution based on the marker planning, otherwise, garments may be defective. During the making of fabric, the face of each ply of the fabric may be placed on the top side, bottom side or face to face.

 

6.     Elimination of static electricity: When textiles are spread out during the lay-up process, friction can cause static electricity to be generated in the materials. To solve this issue, measures to decrease friction in textiles or raise the air's humidity in the space or earthling of textiles can be taken. Lay is capable of.

 

7.     Easy separation of the cut lay into bundles: The bundle size of the cut fabrics depends on the height of the fabric lay. During fabric spreading, differentiation marks among the fabric plies may be required due to color or shade variation or for any other reasons. For making this differentiation, low priced colored paper layer is used between the fabric plies. After cutting the fabric, for differentiation between colored and non-colored in each bundle, the use of such colored paper is very helpful. Moreover, in the case of slippery fabric, such colored paper helps to hold the fabric lay.

 

8.     Avoidance of fusion of plies during cutting: During the time of cutting of fabric lay with the cutting knife, heat is created due to the friction between fabric and knife. The fabrics in which there are thermoplastic fibers, fibers melt due to frictional heat. As a result, the melted matter takes the form of polymer bid or grain due to joining together, or the cutting ends join with one another. As a result, it becomes very inconvenient to separate the patterns, and defective patterns are created.

 

9.     Avoidance of distortion in spread: When cutting textiles made of thermoplastic fibers, if the cutting knife gets too hot, the fabrics may fuse together. One way to stop the fabric from fusing together is to use anti-fusion paper.

-        Applying silicon grease to the knife edge.

-        Lowering the ply height

 

10.  Matching checks or stripes: If the fabric is striped or checkered, it needs to be set out according to the marker design, and a needle should be used to match them.

 

 

Types of Fabric Lays:

There are primarily two ways to lay different kinds of cloth.

Based on the construction: Based on the construction, fabric lays may be of two types:

1) Straight lay

2) Stepped lay

1. Straight lay: In this type of lay, each ply of the fabric is spread at full length as per the length of the marker. In that case one marker is used. The type of straight lay is used mostly and its example is given in the figure.

   

          Fig: Straight lay

 

2. Stepped lay: In this type of lay, each ply of the fabric is not spread at full length, which means they are arranged in steps. For stepped lay, a different kind of marker is needed. This type of lay is rarely used, because fabric wastage is high.

         

          Fig: Stepped lay

 

 

b) Based on the direction of spreading: The types are mentioned and discussed below.

1. All face up/down.

2. Face to face

3. Zig-Zag

 

1. All face up/down: This type of lay is suitable for wide and open fabric. The face side of each ply of the fabric is placed either on the top side or on the bottom side. But the direction of fabric spreading is always in the same direction. After spreading of each ply, the fabric end is cut and again the fabric is spread from the same end.

 

                             Fig: All face up/down lay

2. Face to face: This type of lay is suitable for wide and open fabric. The front side of the ply of the fabric is placed face to face in pairs and for making the lay, the fabric roll is required to be turn after completion of the spreading of fabric for each ply. For making this type of fabric lay, a special type of fabric spreading machine is required.

 

                   Fig: Face to Face lay

 

3. Zig Zag lay: For making this type of lay, fabric spreading starts from one end as per the marker length and reaches the other end, and without cutting the fabric end, it is kept hold and the fabric spreading runs continuing. This way the zig-zag lay is done. Zig zag lay is widely used in the garments industry but for asymmetric fabrics this type of lay may create problem.

 

           Fig: Zig Zag lay

 

 

 Types of Fabric Packages: There are different types of fabric packages used in the apparel industry, which are pointed out below:

-        Open fabric rolled

-        Folded fabric rolled

-        Tubular knitted fabric rolled

-        Hanging fabric rolled

-        Folded fabric scuttled

 

1.     Open fabric rolled: Most of the fabrics are supplied in open fabric-rolled and in full-width packages, winding on the hard paper tube of 7 to 8 cm diameter. The width of the fabric roll may be from 75 cm to 3 meters and within the roll there may have one 100 meters to a few hundred meters of fabric in length. From this type of fabric roll, fabric spreading may be done both by manually or by machine.

                                         

2.     Folded fabric rolled: Fabric is folded on a 1 to 2 cm thick hardboard just along the middle line of the width of the fabric. Generally the retailers use such type of package. The full width of fabric is 70 to 80 cm. Fabric spreading cannot be done from such type of fabric roll by spreading machine. The use of such type of roll in garments factories are very much limited.

                     

 

3.     Tubular knitted fabric rolled: Most of the knitted fabric is made in tubular forms and they are winded in rolls and supplied. The width of tubular fabric is generally made as per the width of the shirts or dresses and it is widely used for making t-shirts and sports shirts. A spreading machine is used for spreading fabric from such type of fabric rolls.

 

   

 

4. Hanging fabric rolled: This type of fabric package is used for special types of fabrics and valuable fabrics. For example, velvet fabric. Within a special type of frame, the fabric package is made in hanging by taking the full width of the fabric and in the certain length of the frame so that the fabric pile is not distorted. Fabric spread is done manually from such package but it cannot be done by machine.

 

5. Folded fabric scuttled: In the case of check fabric or knitted fabric, such type of fabric package is done so that there is no distortion in the fabric. Fabric packages are made in full-width of fabric and in 80 to 90-cm long well-balanced folds by wrapping the folds with the end of the fabric. A fabric spreading machine is required for making fabric lay by spreading fabric from such types of packages. Fabric spreading by hand from such packages is very much unsuitable.

     

Fabric spreading system:

-        Mark the splice zone on the spreading table.

-        Use paper for the first ply in case is rough or when fine fabrics are on the table surface being spread.

-        Identify the defects noticed in the fabric by means of stickers.

-        Use lubricated paper for separating layers.

-        To prevent scorching in the natural fibers (coarse fabrics)

-        To prevent fusing in the synthetic fabrics."

-        Ensure that the decided number of ply counts and height of the spread are achieved.

 

 

Methods of Fabric Spreading

There are mainly two methods used for making lays of fabric by spreading fabrics, such as:

1) Manual method

2) Mechanical method

 

 

1. Manual method: In this method, fabric spreading can be done in three ways which are discussed here:

a)    Fully manual spreading: As per the length and width of the fabric, two workers spread the fabric roll manually from two sides of the table. Sometimes this job is done by entering iron or wooden rod through the paper tube placed at the center of the fabric roll.

 

b)    Manual spreading with the help of hook: In this case, the top of the table which is used for fabric spreading, is set at 10 degree angle with the perpendicular. Then one selvedge of the fabric is hooked with the 15 cm length hook placed on the top of the table and the other end (selvedge) of the fabric remains hanging due to its own weight. The hooks are placed in the same row at a distance of 20 to 25 cm from each other. After spreading the fabric, the top of the table is set again parallel to the floor. Then the hooks are removed and the marker is placed on the fabric lay.

 

c)    With the help of manual spreading track: There is a spreading track on the one end of the spreading table in which the fabric roll is set. Then the track is manually driven from one end to the other end of the table and simultaneously the fabric is unwound from the roll kept in the track and the spreading of fabric continues as per the length and width of the marker. For guiding the journey of the spreading track easily and in certain track, generally it is done by placing two rail lines and wheels on them at the two sides of the spreading table top. Sometimes the spreading track is placed at one end of the table and two workers holding the two selvedges of the fabric from the two sides of the table, spread the fabrics drawing from one end of the table to the other.

 

2) Mechanical method: The machines which are used for fabric spreading are of two types, such as:

 

Semi-automatic: The spreading machine is run on the specific path with the help of motor on two rails at the two sides on the top of the table. The fabric roll is placed at the specific place in the machine. The spreading machine makes the fabric lay on the table by spreading of the fabric moving from the one end of the table to the other with the help of electrical and mechanical power.

 

The advantages of semi-automatic machine:

1.     There is system for counting the fabric plies automatically.

2.     There is system for cutting the fabric plies automatically.

3.     There is system for holding the ends of the fabrics automatically after cutting of the fabric plies.

4.     There is an inspection light for marking the fabric faults during spreading of fabrics.

5.     There is a system for controlling of fabric tensions.

6.     There is a leveling blade for making the fabric top flat and straight.

7.     There is photoelectric guide for making the selvedge alignment.

8.     There is turn table for turning the fabric roll.

9.     There is platform with the spreading head for the sitting of the operator.

10.  It can spread up to 100 meters of fabric per minute.

11.  Up to 25 cm of height lay can be made

 

The disadvantages of semi-automatic machine:

1.     Fabric roll loading, cutting is still manual.

2.     No suitable for larger scale industry.

3.     Small role size.

 

Full automatic: The full automatic machine is the improved version of the semi-automatic machine. All the advantages available in a semi-automatic spreading machine are present here, moreover, some additional advantages are available in the full automatic machine, because these machines are run by robot and microprocessor controlling.

 

Advantages of the full automatic spreading machine:

1.     Here, m/c can be set before the expected amount of plies spreading

2.     After completing, fabric spreading will stop automatically and give a signal.

3.     It is automatically spliced and starts new fabric spreading were the last fabric roll has finished.

4.     Any kind of fabric can be spread

5.     Less time is needed

6.     Less labor cost

 

Disadvantages of the full automatic spreading machine:

1.     It is very expensive so the capital investment is high

2.     A skillful operator is needed to operate these types of machines.

 

Automatic Spreading Machine:

 

     

                            Fig: Automatic Spreading M/C

 

 

 

Main Parts of Automatic Spreading M/C:

-        Fabric setting bar

-        Bucket for roll fabric

-        Manual handle for fabric feeding

-        Edge control sensor

-        Expander roller

-        Wind protection curtain

-        Cutter rail

-        Cutter device

-        Fabric sliding plate

-        Operation Panel or cutter

-        LCD touch panel

-        Manual grip

 

Types of splice:

At the beginning of discussion about the types of splice, it is essential to know its definition. During the spreading of fabrics, if any fabric defect is found, then along the width of the fabric, the defect is cut away. Then on the cut end of the fabric, fabric spreading restarts allowing required amount of overlapping at the new end of fabric. Generally the splice position is marked in the marker. This type of overlapping is called the splice. Splice is generally of two types:

a) Straight line splice

b) Interlock splice

 

 

Straight line splice: This type of splice is marked by a straight line along the width of the spreading table. In the marker, the straight line merges with the patterns of both sides along the splice mark. Along such splice line keeping about 2 inches of additional fabric on both sides, the spreading of fabric restarts.

 

 

Interlock splice: This type of splice is marked with two straight lines along the width which are again joined by cross lines. Such type of splice mark is marked by chalk on the spreading table at the beginning. It is meant by the interlock splice mark that within this mark there are two types of pattern in an interlock condition along the width. Like previously, here also the fabric spreading starts keeping 2 inches of additional fabric on both sides of interlock splice marking.

 

 

Challenges in Fabric Spreading:

1.      Fabric Type: Different fabrics require different handling techniques, making it essential to have skilled operators who understand the specific needs of each material.

2.     Pattern Matching: Aligning patterns, plaids, or stripes can be challenging, and mistakes can result in unusable garment components.

3.     Fabric Grain: Maintaining the correct grain direction is crucial for ensuring the fit and drape of the finished garment.

4.     Efficiency vs. Quality: Balancing the need for efficiency with the need for high-quality spreading can be a challenge. Rushing the process may lead to inaccuracies.

5.     Training and Skill: Skilled operators are essential for successful fabric spreading, and ongoing training is necessary to maintain quality standards.

 

Fabric spreading is a foundational step in the garment production process, impacting material efficiency, quality, and overall production costs. Employing the right methods and equipment, and addressing the challenges associated with fabric spreading, can result in efficient and cost-effective manufacturing. Proper fabric spreading ensures that garments meet the desired quality and fit standards, making it a critical aspect of the textile and apparel industry.